Bus Trip to San Carlos Bariloche

Thank God I bought some supplies in El Calafate, cause if I had relied on the bus company to keep me feed and watered, I'd have faded away to a shell....  

Basically it's a 28 hour virtually non-stop trip from El Calafate to San Carlos Bariloche and whilst they say they'll provide three meals during the length of the journey, a solitary biscuit in the morning doesn't count as a meal, though at least the roll at lunch time was at least half way decent.... But as for not providing a caffeine addict such as myself with at least one coffee in a 24 hour period, well that's just in humane! I can't wait till I get to Bariloche.... 

Hate to say it, but I think I might be making a dash to the McDonalds store, for a bit of sustenance, if you can call it that, cause I don't know what else is likely to be open by the time we get there...... Who know's I might get lucky!

El Cafalate

I'm being to feel that whilst organising to get around Peru & Bolivia may be more intimidating in a way, it's probably easier and without some of the difficulties that Argentina throws at you..... Whether that's cause it seems to be a more "direct" booking system, with a it being a face to face transaction or not, I don't know. Admittedly, I didn't try to purchase bus tickets on line in either Peru or Bolivia as I did in Argentina where I nearly became unstuck..

My reason for saying this is that whilst I was able (after an hour or so of mucking around) to be able to book my bus tickets to and from El Cafalate on the internet, I was unable to print them off the bus lines system, nor save them as a PDF file or what have you, a situation that the staff at Bariloche's bus station were able to rectify (for a small fee) for the trip down.

I ended up with no end of hassles trying to get the same sort of assistance in El Cafalate however. Fortunately I had retained a screen dump of everything I had done during the booking process, with which I was eventually able to convince the staff in El Calafate that I should be heading back to Bariloche on a ticket that had already been paid for using their own website...... 

Phew. Nice town it may be.... but I had places to be.

El Chalten

Today was spent exploring some of the glaciers, lakes and mountains in South Patagonia and I'm so glad I did.

I had a wonderful day, got to find out a little bit more of the recent history of the country and had the opportunity to see and photograph the landscape from a different perspective than if I'd been riding through the area. IE: I had to do a bit of mountain climbing in order to get the shot below and several more like it!

Essentially I'd initially booked my trip down to El Calafate such that I had the chance of doing the glacier tour on either of two days. Why? Essentially because the tour company only accepted email (not direct web page) bookings ten days or more prior to doing their guided tour. As a result, getting lucky and doing the trip out to the glacier on day one meant that I had the opportunity last night to see what else in the way of tourist / sightseeing activities was on offer in the area!

Glacier Porito Moreno

Today's adventure to see what I believe is one of the largest glaciers in the world, has been on the cards for a few weeks now and I can only blame my mate Terry and my travel agent Ching-Yin Ng from Flight Centre for putting the idea in my head.

I've got to say that whilst seeing it come into view on the bus from El Cafalate,  then taking photos of it from a boardwalk nearby were impressive, but that was nothing in comparison with being given the opportunity to explore it on foot. Putting the crampons on and trekking up and over the glacier was a first and I've got to say I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Seriously I'd put today's fun and games up there with the day I spent at Machu  Picchu or riding across the Salar De Uyuni in Bolivia.

El Calafate

Whilst we typically think of Australia as being a big flat barren country in which you need to ride (or drive) significant distances to get between places / tourist icons and so on, the same would seem to hold true of Argentina as well.

A quick search on Google tells me that whilst Australia has a land mass of 7,633,565 KM square, making it the sixth largest country in the world, whilst Argentina isn't far behind at 2,736,690 KM square and the eighth largest.

All of which puts yesterday and today's 29 hour bus trip into context and to think I'll be doing the same thing in reverse in only three or four day's time. I tell you what, this bloody glacier had better be as spectacular as everyone hypes it up to be....

On the positive side though, is that spending so many hours on a bus with little to do other than read my book, listen to music, watch the TV (some of which has been in English with Spanish subtitles, though the sound system doesn't seem to work), is that I've had plenty of time to contemplate life, set a few goals for the year ahead (maybe not so much O/S travel) and think about what I've got out of this trip other than just fitter!

Bus trip to El Cafalate

What a hectic morning.

Why, cause I spent the better part of an hour or so, haggling with the receptionist on the front desk of my hotel that I needed / wanted a statement (or something in writing) showing the nature of my payments. It's not normally something that I need to do, however I'm just a little bit jumpy about the way the hotels operate over here. 

It appears that the hotel I stayed at in Puerto Varas, Chile last week has charged not only the checkout bill for the length of my stay, but also the two individual night "deposit" transactions. Supposedly these weren't ever to be put through, but purely used to hold onto my money in case I left without paying. In other words I've paid for the same room twice. 

Hopefully the bank can help me resolve these disputed transactions.

But what's that got to do with this mornings little adventure?

Well basically, they charged my credit card on arrival (something which showed as a pending transaction on my online banking facility) then reversed it, because they'd put it through a couple of dollars short. Whilst I'd offered at the time to make up the shortfall in cash it seemed beyond their (or the systems) capability.

Unfortunately however as their reversal transaction still doesn't appear on my credit card statement (online) I am once again a little fearful I'll be charged twice and as a result was seeking some reassurance (or proof for down the track) that wouldn't be the case.

As the provision of a statement showing both sides of the ledger (you can tell who's a boring accountant,  can't you) well it seemingly wasn't possible and as a result I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed that it will all work out in the end! I've gotta be honest and say there's a good part of me which will be happy when I'm boarding my plane outta here.

Fortunately I left the hotel with just sufficient time to get to the bus station, have them print my bus ticket and to jump on the bus so that the rest of this week's little adventure could continue.

San Carlos De Bariloche

Well things didn't initially go to plan, the money exchange office being closed leaving me with a fist full of Chilean Pesos (they're polymer notes, like ours) which of course are useless here in Argentina.

I wasn't keen on the idea of dealing with one of the black market / street traders so I had to rob the hole in the wall which is a bit of a pain in the proverbial, cause as I might have mentioned previously, the ATM's here only allow you to withdrawal pitiful sums of money and then charge you a sizeable "fee" as a percentage of the transaction. 

It's no wonder that the country is in the doldrums, they don't exactly make it easy for international tourists to spend their money! 

At any rate, given that one of the major incentives for getting into Bariloche yesterday was to
reorganise my bags, air my tent (it was wet when it last got packed away) and to disassemble my bike and box it up given that I fly off to Buenos Aires on Tuesday week, I rode down to the bike rental / hostel from which Daniel operates.

Boy o boy, did I get a reminder (once again) of how strong the wind is here! Heck, I suspect if I lived in the area permanently I'd be a skier rather than a cyclist. It's just not fun, slogging your guts out in the wind! Give me the hills any day!

Now that the bike's packed, for the next couple of weeks at least, it may get an airing in Los Angles, time to be a true tourist now, starting with a bus trip to El Calafate tomorrow morning! It's only a 24 plus hour drive!

Villa La Angostura to San Carlos De Bariloche

Despite there being a howling gale and it raining cats and dogs, I decided to ride on to Bariloche today so that I could get down to Puerto Pañuelo, where Daniel from Cordillera Bikes is located early tomorrow morning and thus give myself time to disassemble and pack my bike for my flight Tuesday week to Buenos Aires.

It's a pity that it's come about so quickly cause I'd like to have spent more time traveling around Chile, the scenery and the people were to die for, Orsono being the possible exception.

Unfortunately however, if I'm to get down to El Calafate before I fly off to Buenos Aires then something had to give.

As for today's ride, it was bloody cold, wet, slow going owing to the wind and not a great deal of fun, I've got to be honest, but I made it. Something that I didn't do a fortnight or so ago, when the weather was considerably better, but what the heck! I did it and those with Strava access will be able to see me full circumnavigation of the last week or so.

Orsono, Chile to Villa La Angostura, Argentina

It's with a degree of trepidation that I set out this morning.

It wasn't particularly warm and the weather forecast for the next two or three days didn't look particularly appealing. Rain!

Unfortunately as this trip unfolds it becomes more acutely obvious to me, just how poorly I'd prepared. Ah well, it is my first go at doing a self-supported ride and it was put together somewhat at the last minute and in a foreign environment.

As I'd discovered on Tuesday not having enough warm clothes, my tent & sleeping bag, along with detailed maps or a GPX route that I could upload into my Garmin bike computer, (a bike computer incidentally which is now so out of date that it doesn't have the live mapping or course correction option found in more recent and more expensive versions) was making things a little tougher than they needed be, albeit my panniers (which I subsequently discovered weren't waterproof) being lighter as a consequence.

I just wish today i could have ridden at my own pace, as opposed to having that nagging feeling in the back of my mind that if I wasn't careful I wouldn't be able to negotiate my way through both the Chilean & Argentinan customs.

Essentially, I needed / wanted to get back to Bariloche as soon as possible, so as to give myself time to pack my bike up, etc! If I'd had more time however, I would have paid a visit to the small car museum I passed along the way, as well as allowing me time to lock my bike up and join in / watch the fun and games of the rodeo that I only temporarily stopped at....

At any rate, arriving into the little town of Entre Lagos around one o'clock, I decided to grab a bite to eat, though there wasn't much on offer as far as cafés and restaurants was concerned. I did however manage to track down a street vendor who was selling large sized Empanadas and cups of Milo but you know, I think I'd got off the tourist trail there somewhere, despite being on the main (well most direct road between Osorno, Chile and Bariloche, Argentina given the lack of eateries / hotels and so on!

Lunch consumed, I headed on, with unfortunately only a rough idea as to the distance and profile, and as it dawned on me, as I continued turning the pedals that I didn't know the hours that the Chilean and Argentinian Customs offices were open! 

The idea of having to turn back, or sleep rough in the cold with the rain coming down, frightening the daylights out of me!

What I particularly didn't count on when I got to the Chilean Customs Office at around five o'clock is that it was still some twenty kilometres (all of it uphill) till I'd get to the border and a further ten kilometres before I'd reach the Argentinian Customs Office.

As the time ticked by, the rain came down and I become enveloped in fog (or a cloud) that making me even more anxious to reach the customs office, before it closed. I sort of figured after that it didn't matter too greatly how long it would take to get to Villa La Angostura. I knew I'd be able to do it and would ultimately end up in a hostel / hotel somewhere in town. Even if that meant waking up the reception desk!

I contemplated stopping a car / truck for a lift to the border, how I was going to negotiate it given my lack of Spanish I don't know, but nonetheless, something inside me said - Keep going, whilst there is still traffic, there's a likelihood that the customs office will be open! As proved to be the case! Paperwork completed, I then headed on to Villa La Angostura just hoping to get there in time to find a restaurant still open and a centrally located hotel with a room available. Sure enough I did, but it did take a few kilometres and a bit of time to find a hostal with a bed available, there obviously being something on in town! Phew!

A quick bite to eat was found to eat, followed by a very long and relaxing shower.  

Puerto Varas to Osorno

Whilst I left Puerto Varas a little later than planned, cause I had to hunt down a couple of bananas and a tin of tuna or what have. I mean if I'd thought about it, I would have done it yesterday.

Either way, essentially I wanted / needed them cause I wasn't sure how far or hard today's ride would be and I wanted to make sure I had a bit of food in reserve should it be required. Ultimately it wasn't a problem, as the photo below indicates!

I think doing a circumnavigation of the lake is a fairly touristy thing to do, even if most people are more sensible than myself and do it on a motorbike, in a car or as part of a bus tour rather than a bike. Either way, I'll end up eating them in the next day or two, regardless of how many cafe, restaurants stops there may be on my route back to Bariloche.

The next little problem I had was getting out of town, having not sourced a map of the town and therefore having no real idea of where I was going. Fortunately I've got a fairly good sense of direction and was able to find the major highway which was to be part of today's route. Yeah!

I then headed on to Puerto Octay along the shores of Lago Llanquihue and with the sun shining down and yet not getting too hot, I've got to say it was a really, really enjoyable ride. Once I got to Puerto Octay, I had a bite to eat and then decided to press on, with the aim being to get to Entre Lagos, some 60KMs away.

Unfortunately however I missed the turn off the major road out of town, it wasn't sign posted (honest) and instead I found myself heading into the major town in the area - Osorno! The one advantage in doing so, was as proved to be the case, one of increasing my odds of finding a hotel for the night.

Rest Day - Puerto Varas

Whilst I'll probably kick myself a little when the credit card bill comes in or when it starts raining on Saturday, as forecast and I'm heading up an unpaved road over / through the Andes, but nonetheless, I decided to extend my stay in Puerto Varas another day.

Whilst I probably should have jumped on my bike for the 40KM return trip to Puerto Monte.

Apparently it's a beautiful little village on the Pacific Ocean, I decided against doing so:

• Partly because of the hassle of getting my bike out of the hotel's storage area;
• Partly cause I just needed time to get a few things organised, such as hotels in El Calafate and Buenos Aires, a sightseeing trip to the glacier in El Calafate, transport down there and back from Bariloche, etc; and
• Partly because I just needed time to unwind.

What better place to do that than a five star hotel with a decent view.....

I just wish their restaurant knew how to make a decent coffee and my life would be complete!

Ensenada to Puerto Varas

I stayed at a B&B, called Hamilton's Place, in Ensenada last night and I've got to say it was a fantastic. 

I had probably the best salmon, I've ever had anywhere, bar perhaps some of the stuff I've cooked at home for myself (which I suspect is my way of acknowledging, that I need to get back into the kitchen)!

I had a wonderful conversation (lasting long into the night) with my hosts, before subsequently retiring to a very warm and comfortable bed and unfortunately though, that proved to be part of my downfall cause with the rain drizzling down, I deferred the start of my day by an hour or so, with the idea of simply lazing under the doona proving too appealing.

When I finally arose and ambled downstairs to the dining / lounge room, I was greeted by some juice, some scrambled eggs and a couple of pancakes accompanied a cuppa tea. T'was, yum!

At any rate, it was still only nine thirty by the time I'd finished up, and I still had plenty of time for me to do the 60-80 kilometres I had in mind doing, before then finding myself some accommodation for the night and More importantly somewhere to grab a bite to eat. 

What I didn't count on though, is still being there three or four hours later still chatting. Some people could chat the hind leg off a dog! Seriously though, it was getting a bit of perspective on what it's like for an ex-pat from Canada to live in a country such as Chile.

As a result it was a bit of reluctance and the sight of grey clouds approaching that I decided to jump on the bike. 

Whilst I rode as fast as I could, I ultimately got caught out, some ten kilometres from the town of Puerto Varas in the rain when it started to bucket down. With it went my aspirations of cycling on to Puerto Monte (and the Pacific Ocean) but the idea of spending another hour or so in the rain not really doing anything for me. 

Maybe I'll visit it tomorrow. 

San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to Ensenada, Chile

On the ride down to the first ferry, well catamaran actually, I realised I'd forgotten to pack two vital things:

• The strap for my heart rate monitor (I'll just have to play it by ear); and
• A pen in order to complete all of the paperwork I'll be given by the Customs / Immigration officers either side of the border. 

Having never packed for a week long self supported ride before (albeit one in which I intend to stay primarily in hotels), their not exactly an automatic inclusion in the "Must pack list".

With grey clouds like this approaching it is no wonder Trolls normally live under bridges!

At any rate, getting back to the ride, well whilst I'd like to be able to include a few photos taken during the first two lake crossings, it was bucketing down with rain, so there was no chance of my getting a decent shot or two, even had I been brave (or silly) enough as to have gone outside. In saying that, I should also confess that I had to pop my winter & wet weather stuff on during the third ferry trip.

And the rain came tumbling down!

The Troll enjoying (or not) it's third ferry ride for the day!

Of course it was probably a bit late doing so by this stage in the day, having started this morning in only my shorts and a summer top. None of which of course kept me particularly warm during my 30 KM ride between Peulla and Puerto Frias an unpaved road through a wonderful nature reserve and which is also the prime means of traveling between Lago Frias and Lago Todos Llos Santos.

I suppose that was my second mistake for the day - Not checking the weather forecast for the day ahead. Ah well, shit happens!

San Carlos de Bariloche

With panniers fitted / loaded and a ferry ticket bought, tomorrow the journey begins again.

Daniel, a decent chap who owns and runs a bike hire company here, in Bariloche, has helped my create a six or seven day route, that will include more than a couple of days or so in Chile, before returning to Bariloche, Argentina.

It starts with three ferry rides across the lakes in the area, one of which I believe is shared between the two countries and I can't wait to get started. It's funny, but I'd talked to Julia about the concept of doing a two or three day self-supported tour of Victoria when I got home. To see how much I enjoyed the concept and how it compared to doing something like "The Andes Trail". IE: Riding with a group of people. It appears however, I'll be putting that concept to the test a whole lot sooner than I'd expected. Ah well, nothing like throwing yourself in at the deep end. Besides, I couldn't finish my trip to South America;

• Without at least riding through Chile, as had originally been on the cards, albeit on a different route; and
• Allowing my cycling miles (achieved over the last couple of months or so) to go to waste. Got to keep the momentum going, particularly if I'm to achieve cycling some goals I'm already setting for 2015.

Heck, who knows I might even try to do the same thing when I ultimately get to Los Angeles in terms of hiring a rack, panniers, and so forth, so that I don't become a pain in the arse to the friend I'll be staying with over the Xmas / New Year period.

For the meantime though, keep your fingers crossed for me that I don't come across too much in the way of unpaved roads and I'll try to update my blog daily. Be forewarned however that it might not be till I get back to Bariloche before you hear from me again!

San Carlos de Bariloche

Dragged the bike out of the hotel basement, gave it a quick once over and then headed out to do the Circuito Chico, being a 25KM secenic circuit, just out of town and something, which gave me a perfect opportunity to turn the pedals, hone my photographic skills and to generally clear my head.

During the ride, I stopped at the peak, to have a cuppa coffee (I might be riding a mountain bike but certain roadie habits can not be changed). Whilst supping my coffee, I had a great chat to a dual Argentinian / American citizen about world events, the joys of traveling and some things I should make sure to see when (if) I visit Buenos Aires. He was a really nice chap and it just helped to remind me that most people are happy, helpful and friendly people.

Getting back to my ride whilst the ride out and then back into town, got a little bit hairy from time to time given the nature of the traffic, it was nonetheless a very enjoyable and worthwhile ride.

If nothing else it was great to get out of town, cause whilst Bariloche is a very scenic / touristy town, a couple of days here is more than enough!

San Carlos de Bariloche

With views such as this and with the sun beating down at a mild twenty degrees or so, how could one be anything but happy.

Whilst it might just be the beer talking but seriously I'm feeling so happy and relaxed right now it's not funny. I'd forgotten what it's like to be King of your own destiny! Mine right now it would seem is to be sitting in the garden of a roadside cafe enjoying a couple of empanadas, some papas fritas and the rest of my bottle of cerveza.

Also on a positive note, it would appear that things are beginning to fall into place already.

• I've despatched, some spare bike parts, a whole bundle of souvenirs and a few other odds and ends I can't or rather don't want to be lugging around with me for the next few weeks;
• I've hired a bike rack & panniers (I so wish I'd bought mine as I'd originally intended);
• I've come up with a few rides, ostensibly around the Bariloche area (it's so beautiful, how could I not stop and enjoy) and also one which would get me over the border and into Chile.
• I've also found out about flying (or as a worst case scenario getting the bus) to El Calafate, Buenos Aires and Santiago so a bit more detailed / longer term plan can be devised.

Of course in saying that my plans of visiting Ushuaia, Antarctica and so on will have to wait. But it's not like Argentina is that difficult to get around, particularly if I can learn a bit of Spanish before the next time I visit.

All in all, whilst it's not the way I'd envisaged things occurring and I've still got a bitter taste in my mouth as to how things ended, I'm pleased at the same time that I've now got the freedom to do what I like, when I like.

If nothing else, that means being able to slow things down a little smell the roses, enjoy the sights, sounds & food that a place has to offer without necessarily always keeping an eye on the clock.

San Carlos de Bariloche

I wish I'd bought my rear rack & panniers as I'd originally intended, because I'm surrounded by some beautiful scenery, am feeling a little better (mentally and physically) & eager to hit the open road on my beloved stead.

I'll just have to see whether I can hire a car large enough to carry all my crap, cause if so, then what I'm thinking is drive from village to another at night and spending the following day doing a bit of a ride around the area.

It shouldn't be too difficult to create a GPX route for myself and to be able to come up with an interesting itinerary.

Let's see what happens tomorrow morning and how I get on in talking to Avis who I think have an branch right here in Bariloche.

Rest Day - Bariloche

Well, it would seem that some people condone violence. Despite my assailant confessing to his wrong doing, the guys from Bike Dreams have decided NOT to throw him off the tour and as a consequence I have come to the conclusion that I will wind things up here & now.

Now a number of people have become aware that I am leaving, though I haven't personally said a great deal to anyone, and they've asked why I was leaving the group rather than cycling with them all the way to Ushuaia and I've got to be honest and say that, in part at least, I found it difficult to answer.

I mean, I know that ultimately my decision to part ways with the group doesn't affect my assailant. In fact if anything it means he "gets away with it" cause I'm not even there as a constant reminder of what he's done, but basically, it's a case of needing to feel safe.

I mean, if something happens on the streets of a city or a road I'm riding, by someone who's unknown to me that's one thing. But when a family member or someone who I've lived with for three to four months does it, then that's another....

At the very least, I've got the ability to reduce the prospect of a repeat performance, by no longer associating with said family member, etc. Now maybe some people will see that as harsh and that he deserves a second chance, but be honest - would you chance it?

Lying, being rude or providing wrongful information or what have you maybe, but physical violence? I'm not going to give ANYBODY the ability to hurt me (physically or mentally) twice!

Villa la Angostura to Bariloche

Not knowing what transpired last night following my discussion with Rob, I felt a little reluctant to ride today and so once again I jumped on the truck and sure the possibility of my assailant lashing out again is / was perhaps a little unlikely, I simply didn't want to run the risk. Admittedly I was also a little concerned how I may or may not retaliate. 

What is interesting through is that my assailant tried to offer an apology this morning but personally suspect it was only under the coercion / suggestion of the tour company owner because if he'd really meant it, he'd have offered the apology some 24 hours earlier and of his own volition rather than hoping the whole thing wouldn't rear it's head as an issue.

It's a pity, to be on the truck, cause it was only 80 odd kilometers most of it relatively flat, all of it paved and skirting a wonderful lake. 

Ah well, better to be safe than sorry as far as I'm concerned!

You know, I cannot help but wonder what would have transpired if I'd taken a swing at him in self-defence, something I've been stewing over since. I know, I know, two wrongs don't make a right, but seriously, in Australia if (when) found guilty of an assault such as this, he'd  potentially cop up to a ten year jail term.

I'll wait to hear what Rob has to say about the issue, but having alerted the tour company of my concerns for my safety and that of other members of the group if this idiot / violent thug is permitted to stay on, my ride is over! What's more, I'll be backing anyone legally and morally who also ends up a victim of a violent attack, whether by this individual or otherwise.

Ruta de 7 Lagos to Villa la Angostura

Having been assaulted last night, by another member of the peleton, I decided against riding today, because I was a little wary of what might occur on the open road... I also needed a bit of time to decide how to tackle the issue, with the thought running through my head that I'd have a chat to the organisers, tell them what had occurred and have the $%*^ thrown off the tour. 

So what happened I hear you ask, well essentially, last night, having eaten dinner and enjoyed a couple of glasses of fine red wine, whilst talking to a friend at around ten o'clock at night, but some fifty to sixty metres from the nearest tent, I was coward punched without warning or provocation by another rider.

Surprisingly enough, NOT by the psycho who was giving me grief a couple of weeks ago.... 

No this was someone else. Someone who I personally suspect has suffered a mental breakdown as a result of heat exhaustion and self induced stress at losing his position as the fastest rider over the full length of the trip or what have you.....

My assailant walked up behind me and without saying a word, just threw a right hook which landed on my left cheek and has subsequently given me somewhat of a sore jaw. He then returned to his tent still without saying a single word. 

Fortunately or unfortunately I was so shell shocked by what had occurred that I did not respond, verbally or physically. 

Heck, I only knew who had done this, when my friend (and witness) followed him to his tent to find out who had landed the blow and why, at which point she allegedly came across the guy simply muttering "He was sick of the noise in campsites"!

With no apology having been sought, I've just informed Rob (one of the tour company owner's) what occurred 24 hours previously. He's indicated that he'll have a talk to the assailant but didn't think that he'd be removing the guy from the tour....

Junin de los Andes to Ruta de 7 Lagos

With the lunch truck having stopped God knows where, once again, (It wasn't where we'd been told it would be) Barry, Terry & myself stopped at a cafe in San Martin de los Andes for a bite to eat and I've got to say it was one of the best lunches I've had in quite a while. I enjoyed a couple of empanadas, a cerveza and followed it all up with a coffee.

Whilst it still remains a mystery to me as to where the lunch truck had stopped, with a number of people within the morning's peleton also saying that they had either bought their own lunches in town or decided to ride on, having not sighted the truck nor a flag indicating that an alternate venue was being utilised, I cannot once again feel a little peeved at the way things are run.

Fortunately the ride element of today's activities was fun. 

I'd ostensibly stayed out of the head wind during the morning by riding with the peleton and as a consequence was able to put the foot down a little for the second half of the day - including the climb out of San Martin de los Andes something that was also helped by the fact that I'd decided (and going against convention and my normal practice) to wear a set of sport head phones in order to listen to some uplifting music by the likes of AC/DC, Midnight Oil, Queen, along with a sprinkling of classical or opera music. T'was most enjoyable. So much so, that I nearly rode past our campsite for the night. 

Las Lajas to Alumine

Despite not riding today, the impact of not having a number of essential / important elements such as:

• Much of an indication as to condition of the road to be covered;
• A sweep rider / vehicle;
• The weather forecast.

I had an enjoyable day once I'd stopped kicking myself for not riding the first half. 

That's twice now that I've wimped out on doing something that I was readily able to do. 

Malargue to Buta Bilton

Today was bloody tough, but the scenery was just so enjoyable.

Essentially rather than being troubled by the route profile, which included a rather impressive climb in the middle, it was the wind that caused the most chaos. Seriously, it was blowing constantly at 70-80 Km/h and is apparently a bit of a precursor as to what we can expect to endure once we get into Patagonia tomorrow.

The climb, well perhaps apart from the final couple of kilometres was the easy part of the day, something you'll rarely hear me say.... The wind at my back was virtually pushing me up the mountain. It was the descent however on which I (and I believe a number of others) had the most difficulty. Now a descent with a 5% gradient is something that normally one flys down at a great deal of knots regardless of whether one is pedaling or not. Today however given that the wind had now become somewhat of a headwind meant that I could get my speed into double figures by pedaling like crazy.

At this point I have to confess that I had a bit of a scare in trying to cope with the wind and found myself being blown across the road on a couple of occasions, including into the path of an on-coming fuel tanker on one of them. 

In taking evasive action, cause I didn't really want to become an ornament on this guy's grill, and don't laugh, I fell off.

It wasn't anything serious though I've now got some sore ribs and a couple of bruises on my right shoulder, but I'll live! 

Despite my fall, I managed to dust myself off and continued riding, even over twenty odd kilometres of unpaved road before finding myself turning into the campsite with only four or five of the faster chaps in.